How to Sew a Fabric Mask

Hi there!  Shifting gears right now.  I've been sewing masks here in Chicago for the healthcare workers who are getting ready to open McCormick Place as a field hospital to treat people with COVID-19.

I've been self-quarantining since getting home from a work trip on 29 February as I'm asthmatic and high risk. There are no Trade Shows right now, thus I'm unemployed, and this gives me something to do to help my community since I can't work or go for a run along the lake.

Here's the legal stuff:  This mask DOES NOT PROTECT THE WEARER AGAINST THE COVID-19 VIRUS.  It is meant as a protection against other airborne particles such as dust, pollen, and other non-virus particles.  These masks have been requested by specific agencies to wear over the appropriate masks that DO protect against the virus to prolong the use of such masks.  Also, for those healthcare professionals not working with patients who have COVID-19, this can offer a little bit of protection against anything airborne that is not viral.

These masks are also perfect for those who suffer from allergies and asthma, as this is the time of year where mine really flares up and wearing a mask always helps me breathe a little easier.  It is thin enough that one can wear it while running and still be able to breathe normally through it.  After all, if we can go out running here in Chicago in sub-zero temperatures with special face shields on, we can wear this type of mask and be fine.

I chose this pattern as it doesn't use elastic--which is impossible to find.  Elastic doesn't stand up too long to excessive washing and bleaching and after extended, daily use by our healthcare providers, it leaves a very painful chaffing behind the ears.  As a runner, we all know to avoid anything that causes chafing.  These take longer to make, but also last longer, so it works out for everyone in the end.

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To make the mask you will need two different 100% cotton fabrics, both light colored.  The different fabrics make it easy to tell which side is which so if the masks are removed and put back on again, it is easy to tell which side has been against the face and which side is exposed.

The directions are for just one mask, but I tend to cut enough fabric to make 4-8 at a sitting.  It seems to go quicker that way, and if you make them in an "assembly line" fashion, you can save thread, which is getting scarce right now.

Also, the seams can be anywhere close to 1/4 to 1/2 inch allowance.  This isn't an art piece that is being judge here, and you need to make them fast if you are donating them.  I eyeball a lot of seams, centers, pleats, etc.  As long as the seams do what they need to do--which is stay together, then you should be good.

You will need the following for one mask:

Steps 1 and 2

• Two different fabrics, 100% cotton, prewashed and shrunk
• All purpose cotton sewing thread
• Straight pins
• Iron and ironing board
• Bias tape is optional and can get expensive--if you use it, double fold 1/2" width.  I'll tell you how to make your own ties, so don't go out and look for it.

1.  Cut two rectangles of fabric, one from each style, 7"x9".
2.  Cut two strips of fabric to match the "back" of the mask, each 2"x36"

Step 3

Step 3

3.  With right sides together, sew the rectangles together along the short edges.  These will be the sides of the mask.  Turn right side out and press.

Step 4

4.  If you are using bias tape, skip the rest of Step 4.  If you want to make your own, follow the directions below...This is the longest part of making masks.  I tend to cut enough straps for 10+ masks and spend hours at the ironing board folding edges and zoning out to a few movies.  While not truly bias tape, it works for this pattern and will save you money.

4a.  Place the strips on the ironing board, right sides down.
4b.  Fold once in half, press.
4c.  Open fold, then fold up lower edge to meet the fold in the middle.  Press.
4d.  Fold upper edge to meet the fold in the middle.  Press.
4e.  Fold upper and lower sections together along original middle fold.  Press.

Step 5

Step 5

5.  You will now seal the edges of the straps.  Take the edge end in one hand and reverse the center fold, essentially turning it "inside out."  Sew 3x across this edge--forward, reverse, forward again to make sure it stays put.  If you are making multiple masks, you can string them all together without having to waste thread (which is in short supply right now) and then cut apart at the end.  Just leave about 1/2 inch of space--about 4 "sews" on your machine--between strips and feed right under the presser foot!

Step 6

Step 6

6.  Trim the fabric close to the seam, trim the threads, and turn the edges right side out again.  You can give it a quick iron press if you like, but a finger press works just fine.  Repeat for all edges.

Step 7

Step 7

7.  Fold the strap in half to find the center and align this center with the center of the long edge of the rectangle.  You can use either the front or the back of the mask body, but I usually start with the back.  Again, I don't measure exact, an eyeball works good enough here.  Open up one side of the strap and pin the center to the center of the mask body.  Smooth the strap along the mask body edge to find its corner, and pin.  Repeat for the other corner.  This will be the top of the mask.  Repeat for the bottom.

Step 8

8.  When you go to sew these pieces together, note where the most outer fold is.  Stay to the outside of the fold a bit to give yourself enough room to align it correctly again when you flip the mask over.  You'll see what I mean in the next step.  Sew the length of the mask body where you pinned.  Cut the thread, turn to the bottom of the mask body and repeat.  Remove the pins.  Flip the mask to the front side.  The straps should be underneath the mask body.

Step 9

9.  Fold the straps over the mask body, bringing the seams and edges into the straps so the edges and seams are hidden.  Give a little finger press to make sure that the edge seams and folds on the back of the mask are where they need to be.

Step 10

Step 10

10.  Sew the entire length of the strap, starting at the end of the strap and working towards the mask body.  Make sure to sew "back and forth" for about 1/2 inch or so at the strap edges to anchor them. Also, try to keep as close to the edge as possible here, 1/4 inch or a little less.  Eyeball it and don't worry about it--just make sure the edges are sewn closed.   As you reach the mask body, try to make sure your stitching is on top of where you originally attached the back of the mask to the strap so that the stitching looks even on both sides.  Again, it's OK if it's a little crooked or if you have to go back and touch up a little bit.  As long as the straps are completely connected to the mask body and the edges are closed, you're good.  Sew all the way to the end of the strap.

Step 10

Step 10

Step 11

11.  If you are making multiple masks, you can also "Assembly line" this part to save time and thread.  Just feed the straps in one after the other and cut them all apart at the end.

Step 12

12.  Make three pleats as shown.  It's hard to explain how to make pleats in writing, you just have to fiddle around with them until you feel comfortable with it.  As long as there are three, and they are all going in the same direction and about the same size, you are good.  Pin the pleats on both sides and then smooth them out in front of you to make sure they are going the same direction.  Trust me.  If you have fabric that has a defined up and down, you will want to make sure your pleats are going in the right direction.

Step 12

Step 12

Step 13

Step 13

Step 13

13.  Sew the pleats.  Go very slowly here as you are sewing through a LOT of fabric all at once and this is where I usually bend my pins, break my needle or have something else go wrong.  As you sew the first pass, when you reach the bottom, leave the needle in the "down" position and lift your presser foot.  Turn the fabric 180 degrees, and lower the presser foot.  Remove the pins and sew back along the seam to the top.  Repeat sewing top to bottom again and then secure the thread.  The pleats will have the most stress so they need to be sewn very sturdy.  Repeat on the other side.

14.  Trim all the thread and smooth the pleats straight.

THAT'S IT!!  One mask completed!

Step 14--THE FINISHED MASK!

Repeat that a few more times and donate them to those who need them!!

If you plan on making a bunch, let me offer you an incentive to make some more.  Have you heard of Tieks by Gavrieli?  Those beautiful flats???  Well they are offering a special incentive for those who sew large quantities.  You can find out more along with places to donate at:

#SewTOGETHER with Tieks

A special thank you to all our health care providers and others on the Front Line right now.  These are some scary times we are going through and please know that you are in our thoughts every minute of the day!

And to everyone else:  Be Safe.  Stay Home.